Installing a New Shower Unit
A successful shower setup requires cautious planning and a lot of work. In many cases, you will need to do three types of jobs: framing walls, installing the plumbing, and ending up walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you must choose the type of shower that you want to set up. It is very important to establish whether the chosen shower can handling particular systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. The majority of shower units nowadays are created to be flexible to different water pressures (such as kept hot water and cold mains).
It is also essential to take into consideration the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drainage for the shower
Different Types of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The tube and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower system can be linked to the bath tap according to your requirement, and the water temperature level can be changed through the taps. Push-on mixers are cheap and incredibly basic to set up. However, although the hose connection is easy, it is quickly dislodged. Additionally, it is bothersome to adjust the temperature.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this kind of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature level can be adjusted through the bath taps. It is a really cheap choice and no extra pipes is included. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers also suffer from inconvenient temperature level control alternatives.
Manual Mixer: The pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower unit are a part of the wall system and the hot and cold water products are connected to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are managed through either one or a range of knobs please read this (in more costly showers). Although temperature level control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more expensive than the previously mentioned mixers. They also need extra plumbing of hot and cold water system pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The tube and spray of this shower type belong of the wall system and the cold and hot water products are connected to a single valve here too. It is total with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to prevent it from ending up being too hot. One of the greatest benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type consists of practical temperature control. However, it is the most expensive of the different mixer alternatives.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single system consisting of an effective electric pump that is capable of altering both the water pressure and temperature level. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is supply of water from a cold water cistern and a warm water cylinder. A power shower makes the change of both pressure and temperature simple. On the other hand, it disagrees for water heated up straight by the shower or where the water is provided by a mix boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it warms the water electrically. It is necessary to note that for this shower type to be set up, the mains pressure requires to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit permits the temperature level and pressure to be adjusted by means of a knob. Models with temperature stabilisers are better as they stay unaffected by other taps somewhere else in usage within the home. A significant disadvantage of electric showers is that the control knob only allows for the choice of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a greater pressure. This is problematic in the winter season when the spray is frequently weak and the mains water is cooler. However, this issue is tackled in some models which are readily available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the type of shower you want to install, the shower head should either be fitted in order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath listed below or the base tray, or it must have a check valve.
Before starting, it is advisable to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work involved. Additionally, the drainage system to eliminate the drainage will need to be planned. Both positions of the cable path and the shower switch will likewise require to be thought about if an immediate or electric shower unit is being installed.
Use the direction guide provided with the shower unit to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will supply the water to the shower system, it is very important to cut off the water system. In order to secure the pipelines, they must be offered a waterproof covering and likewise fitted with separating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the general look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the main shower control to the pipelines that will be providing the water (This might need a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water system and test the pipes for any leakages, as some might need tightening.
If you are setting up an electrical shower, remember to turn off the electrical power supply before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have actually been made (there should be guidance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be changed back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Fit Your Shower
The cold water reservoir can be lifted to a higher height (often as low as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden support below it-- possibly made up of struts and blockboards. If you choose this choice, the primary and distribution pipelines will likewise need to be raised to fulfill the brand-new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is selected, it should be linked into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to utilize 15mm size supply pipelines, and make the runs to the shower as brief and straight as possible so as to preserve optimal pressure and minimise heat loss. In addition, by minimising using elbows for pipe corners, you can decrease the resistance in the circulation of the supply of water. You can achieve this by flexing the pipes instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaking or overlooking local code restrictions.
# Utilizing pipes that read this are too small.
# Connecting copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.
# Not using tape or pipeline substance at threaded joints.
# Not installing an air gap filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too brief to install the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall remains in place.
# Not appropriately lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will trigger a leakage.)
# When turning the water back on in your house, constantly run the outside tube valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can cause issues in your sink faucets and other pipes trim.